Eight minutes in the pan, and most of the work is standing the chops on their fat edge first. Render that strip properly and the whole dish tastes better.
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Cook’s notes
Loin chops are the little T-bones; rib chops (cutlets) work identically and cook a minute faster.
Dried oregano rather than fresh, unusually. It is more pungent and stands up to the pan, where fresh oregano just burns.
Charring the lemon is worth the two minutes — it turns the juice from sharp to rounded and slightly sweet.
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