Overripe Banana Bread

1. 1Heat the oven to 175°C / 155°C fan / 350°F. Line a 900 g (2 lb) loaf tin with parchment, leaving an overhang on the long sides so you can lift the loaf out later.
2. 2Mash the bananas in a large bowl with a fork until almost smooth — a few lumps are fine and make for a better texture. If your bananas are merely yellow, roast them in their skins at 200°C for 15 minutes and cool before using; it darkens and sweetens them convincingly.
3. 3Whisk the melted butter and brown sugar into the bananas, then the eggs one at a time, then the vanilla and soured cream. Whisk hard for 30 seconds — the batter should look glossy rather than curdled.
4. 4Sift the flour, bicarbonate of soda, salt and cinnamon straight over the bowl. Fold with a spatula just until the last streak of flour disappears, then fold in the walnuts or chocolate if using. Stop there: overmixing develops gluten and gives you a rubbery, tunnelled loaf.
5. 5Scrape into the tin, level the top and scatter over the demerara sugar for a crunchy lid.
6. 6Bake for 55–65 minutes. It's done when a skewer into the centre comes out with a few damp crumbs but no raw batter. If the top is browning fast at the 40-minute mark, lay a piece of foil loosely over it.
7. 7Cool in the tin for 15 minutes, then lift out by the parchment onto a rack. Let it cool at least another 30 minutes before slicing — cut it hot and it will squash and gum up under the knife.

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