White Pizza with Ricotta and Garlic

1. 1Warm the olive oil with the sliced garlic in a small pan over the lowest heat for 5 minutes, until the garlic is fragrant and barely golden. Do not let it colour beyond pale gold; burnt garlic oil is bitter and there is no tomato here to hide behind.
2. 2Drain the ricotta in a sieve for at least 30 minutes if it looks at all wet, then beat it with the Parmesan, half the lemon zest, a pinch of salt and plenty of black pepper.
3. 3Heat the oven with a steel or heavy tray inside to its maximum, at least 250°C, for a full hour.
4. 4Stretch the dough by hand, leaving a 2 cm rim. Brush the whole base, rim included, with the garlic oil.
5. 5Scatter over the mozzarella, then dot the ricotta mixture over in rough spoonfuls. Dotting rather than spreading gives you distinct pockets of ricotta instead of a uniform, slightly claggy layer.
6. 6Scatter over the sliced garlic from the oil and the oregano, and bake for 7–9 minutes, until the crust is blistered and the ricotta is just starting to take colour at the peaks.
7. 7Finish out of the oven with the remaining lemon zest, the rocket, chilli flakes and a last drizzle of the garlic oil. The lemon and rocket are what stop a cheese-on-cheese pizza tasting flat.

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